Mullens to Wandi Waterhole

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MISTY fog clung to the forested hills as I set out from Mullen's Carpark at sunrise, descending along the trail towards the five streams of the headwaters of Teewah Creek, one of the major tributaries of the Noosa River. The first two streams were almost non-existent save for the bent over reeds from the recent flooding. The two following streams were bridged, crossing deep dark pools of tannin stained water. The third stream was a ford across a gravel base in between two dark pools, the water not deep enough to get into my boots.

With the streams behind me, the track ascended onto a small plateau covered in a low thick heath with countless spider webs between the shrubs. Most of the mist had lifted by now but there was a layer of mid level cloud the sun was struggling to penetrate through.

Towards the end of the plateau the track entered thick forest rising over a low hill before descending to a wetland valley below. A short drop descended into scribbly gum open forest for some distance. The sandy track was dry as I hiked along it, having a short rest at a fallen tree, before continuing along the widening valley.

The track entered thick scrub on a gradual descent for about fifteen minutes before reaching a large pool. This was the upper pool of Neeb's Waterhole, the permanent source of the Noosa River. The track followed above this calm waterhole along its length before descending to a crossing of the river. A sign showing the distance back to Mullens, and onwards to Wandi Waterhole and Harry's Hut was bent over about 30 degrees from the force of the water in the recent flood. The water must have risen a good three or four metres. Fortunately the water was a lot shallower, around ten centimetres deep at the crossing point with deep pools carved out on either side.

The terrain wasn't much different to when I had last been here about this time last year, except for a couple of deep holes and fallen trees, and a bit more sand deposited over the area. From the crossing I headed up the bank and continued another hundred metres to Neeb's Waterhole camp.

The camping ground was intact, but part of the steep bank at the edge of the waterhole had eroded and another tree fallen into the water. Otherwise the lower waterhole was the same as I had seen it last year.

After resting at Neeb's Waterhole, I continued following the track. I was almos nine kilometres out from Mullen's but had another 12 kilometres to go before reaching Wandi Waterhole. The track followed above the lower waterhole for about twenty minutes before reaching a junction where the campsite service road continued straight ahead and the Cooloola Wilderness Trail turned to the right to follow the top of a very low ridge.

I followed the track heading through the scrubby forest crossing over three low hills for several kilometres before descending into an area of tall forest crossing a stream. Here the track was knee deep in water for about a hundred metres before reaching the other side. There the forest quickly gave way to open heathland with the track heading across the swamp. Fortunately most of the track was dry but light rain was starting to fall.

The open swamp didn't last long though, with the track going back into open forest. After another ten minutes the track started climbing a small hill, where the forest thickened with thick vines blocking much of the view. After crossing the hill I reached Cooloola Way, a gravel road heading through the middle of the national park. A sign was on either side, with Wandi Waterhole just 4.7 kilometres away.

The track passed through the open eucalypt forest with large trees growing out of the dense green grass. The view was much the same over nearly four kilometres as I continued through the forest. Eventually the track descended into a low valley with a stream running through it and a shallow ford between two pools took me out of this valley to head over another low hill.

Crossing the side of the hill, the track continued for a few hundred more metres before reaching a junction, where a tree had recently fallen smashing most of the sign. I knew where I was though, with the main track turning off to the right and the track continuing straight ahead to Wandi Waterhole which was only about two hundred metres away.

As I followed the track, I caught glimpses of the waterhole below me. Then I reached another junction, and turning left I was just ten metres away from the small clearing of the camping ground.

Several large branches and trunks of fallen trees surrounded a middle section where campfires had been lit in the past. These were surrounded by short grass offering plenty of spots to pitch a tent. I settled in pitching the tent in the largest area of grass being pretty sure there won't be anyone else coming tonight. I had not seen another person on the track today, but had seen some bootprints, so people have hiked the track in recent days.

With the tent set up and everything unpacked, I returned along the track passign the junction decending to the waterhole. This was a very pretty waterhole, surrounded by gum trees reflected perfectly in the mirror smooth water. There was no wind at all so I sat beside the waterhole relishing in its remoteness until rain started falling. Then I headed back to the camp for dinner and a final stroll to the waterhole as the sun set. The clouds were too thick to get any colour in the sky though. I turned in as soon as the sky darkened.