Introduction to today's journey
Nestled in the picturesque hills at the Brisbane City end of the D'Aguilar Range, Enoggera Dam stands as a testament to human ingenuity and the resilience of nature. Originally constructed in the early 1860s to supply water to the growing city, the still waters gives a stoic presence amidst the eucalyptus-clad hills whispering stories of reilience and renewal. The lake behind the dam now offers a sanctuary for hikers, cyclists and kayakers alike.
Today's journey starts at Enoggera Reservior, following the Araucuria Trail and continuing around the lake to its far end before following the creek upstream. Upon reaching Holman's Break, I climb steeply to Boundary Road running along the ridge up to Scrub Road Camp near the source of the creek where I spend my first night in the remote bush.
Distance hiked today: 26.1km
Total distance hiked: 54.8km
Today's Journey
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Scaling my way up the track under torchlight, I reach the Enoggera Dam viewpoint at first light. The slight hint of grey behind the red lights atop the Mount Coot-tha aerials quickly pains dramatic hues over the silhouetted hills. Wispy clouds artfully touched by the early morning humidity captures the illumination confirming my suspicions today will be a hot sunny day adding to the challenge of the climb towards the top of the range. |
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With the dawn revealing its magical palette, the valley sheds its nocturnal cloak, exposing the collossal grey dam wall. It is a Victorian marvel constructed in 1866 as one of two dams to supply the growing city. Today it still supplies water to the city, though only forms a very small part of the thirsty city's supply. The lake stretching behind the dam is as smooth as a polished mirror reflecting the vibrant sky above, not showing any hint of all the activity today when the crowds of city slickers arrive. It is time to lace up the hiking boots and hit the track before the crowds turn this serene landscape into a bustling outdoor carnival. Nature, here I come! |
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I enter the D'Aguilar National park hitting the Araucaria Track like a bushwalk ninja, relieved to be walking relatively soft dirt track as opposed to yesterday's concrete pavement through the city and suburbs. The track stays close to the lake, nagivating its jagged twists, turns and surprises around long peninsulas and into deep coves full of aquatic vegetation hiding all manner of snakes and other dangerous water fauna. The quickly ascending sun reflects off the ripples now forming on the surface of the water. Groups of local joggers pass me by as I amble along the trail.
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Upon reaching the end of the Araucaria Track, I follow one of the firebreak trails continuing along the lake. Unlike the track, the firebreak is wildly undulating rising and falling steeply over spurs and gullies. Here the fitter walkers and runners venture beyond the bounds of the easy walking tracks. The four wheel drive track only driven by the very occasional ranger doing their rounds continues around the lake, clearly marked between the bright green grass growing under the tall open eucalypt forest on either side. The constant undulations make the going a little tough. |
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Entering nature's silent disco, the bush whispers tranquility in the humid air. It is accompanied by a symphony of birdsong - nature's own playlist. As I venture deeper into the natioanl park, the trail sheds its city coat, and suddenly, I realise it's just me, the trees and the feathered choristers. The city's distant roar has gradually morphed into a mere hum. The chaos and traffic noise of yesterday is now a distant memory.
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Nearing the upper reaches of the lake, I reach a nature-made stage. It is a clearing with a view across to the now distant dam wall. The lake up here is a lot narrower with the steep hills now encroaching on either side. Apart from the dam wall, there are no other signs of civilisation, the city just mere kilometres away has completely disappeared. I relax in the tranquility of the lake before seeing two paddle boarders making their way up the lake in the distance. |
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The forest thickens before I reach the upper Enoggera Creek just upstream from where it flows into the lake. The main firebreak track crosses the creek before continuing and turning to start following the other side of the lake towards the dam. Many fit hikers do this circuit, but today I'm heading up the range. From here there are several tracks heading up to the top of the ridge. I decide to follow the track less travelled, the Long Range Walking Track. Once a popular track, now faded away and largely overgrown, I follow it just above the creek as it passes through a pretty rocky gorge in rainforest. Fortunately it is not too overgrown and faded pink ribbons lead the way along this hiker's treasure hunt. |
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After nearly an hour of following Enoggera Creek upstream, I reach a clearing at Holman's Break, a steep firebreak shooting steeply up the range in either direction. Seeing the track I have been following almost completely disappears, I decide to rest here beside the tranquil pool in the creek. I watch the bubbles in this hidden valley oasis feeling like the VIP section of tranquility. |
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Summoning my inner mountain goat, I cross the stream just below the pool before starting the conquest of Holman's Break, rising surprisinly steep up the side of the valley. As I trudge my way uphill, the creek below quickly transforms into a mere ribbon of water, waving goodbye to the rainforest as dry eucalyptus forest takes its place. The loose rock underfoot slows progress, but I persist, knowing this climb is the overture to a symphony of ascents. Fortunately the initial struggle quickly changes to a moderate ascent along the top of a spur leading towards the ridge's apex. |
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Rising over a hundred metres above the creek, now completely hidden, I reach the end of the firebreak, greeted by a T intersection where the four wheel drive track known as Boundary Road struts along the top of the ridge. From here I turn right to follow the ridge uphill, where the occasional cyclist or long distance jogger passes me on this otherwise unused dirt road along the top of the ridge. |
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Embarking on a rollercoaster ride of ever increasing elevation, Boundary Road track becomes my trusty companion for hours as I slowly approach today's destination. it's like a scenic dance, rising and falling with the whims of the range's contours, sidling around the lofty hills like a hiking connoisseur. The ridge continues ascending towards the top of the range at Mount Nebo. The occasional firebreak and track crosses this track, forming a labyrinth of walking wonders of over seven hundred kilometres in this national park. With a mission to achieve, I resist the call of these side tracks as I continue onwards and upwards. |
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The sun is sinking low as I reach Scrub Road Remote Bush Camp, perched atop a four hundred metre high rounded hill covered in the same eucalytus forest I have been hiking through all afternoon. Here I pitch my bivvy tent near the rustic shelter before following a side track down to the headwaters of Enoggera Creek. Returning to base, the camp welcomes me back with open arms. As I relax and cook dinner in the shelter, it's surreal to think I'm just a day's stroll from suburbia and two days hike from the centre of a major city. Tonight is the first of several nights' solitude in the secret retreat of the D'Aguilar National Park. |
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